BPI credit card had a Korean visa promo about three years ago. We took advantage of it but waited until the visas were about to expire before finally using them.
I was planning to use my brother's Korea itinerary but had to make lots of revisions because we needed a plan that can accommodate a little boy. Meaning, we can't have very packed days and lots of activities on consecutive days. I learned from the Hong Kong trip that it would be very exhausting (to the point of us getting sick) if we have a very tight schedule.
Itinerary Source
I came across this very helpful blog https://www.jenwanderstories.com/one-week-seoul-itinerary-for-families/ which I used as basis for our itinerary. I loved how this post specified subway routes going to the different spots, including the best exit to take.
I followed maybe 75% of its advice. I just switched some days to adjust to the tour groups we wanted to join. I also had to make some last minute changes because Rhuel was still recovering from his surgery. I had to postpone the activities that required lots of walking to later dates to make sure Rhuel could join.
Map to Use
I tried plotting routes using Google Maps but it was not working properly when we got there. Fortunately, a colleague who visited Korea in April advised me to download Naver and Kakao maps as these were more reliable.
We used Naver most of the time and it was really helpful. It tells you what coach to take so you can exit or transfer faster. It tells you what exit to take. And its best feature was telling you not just the next stop to watch out for but also the popular stop on that train line. Unfortunately, Korea's subway system's instructions are not as efficient as in other places. Directions sometimes mention the next stop or the last stop of that train line. So it can be very confusing. Good thing Naver took that into account when it made its app.
Hotel
My brother stayed in Myeongdong and he got tired of eating Korean barbecue and kimchi for several days. He also didn't like the touristy vibe in the area. He was recommending Hongdae as it offered more variety in terms of dishes and he loved the youthful and university vibe it exuded. Myeongdong was near the tourist shops, while Hongdae was near various universities (and shops too, we discovered later on).
I still ended up choosing Myeongdong because I felt it was more "central." After visiting Hongdae (and other areas in Seoul), however, I realized that they were all accessible anyway so my "central" theory was not really true. But I still feel that Myeongdong was best for us (at least for the hotel that we picked), because our exit was not as crowded as the one we took in Hongdae.
I decided to pick Ibis because it was under Accor hotels. I signed up for a membership with Accor when we had to book Novotel for Rhuel's work before. I was finally able to take advantage of the numerous marketing e-mails I received from them when I was looking for a hotel for this trip. I booked the hotel during one of their private sales.
I was choosing between the Insadong and Styles Ambassador Myeongdong branches. There was another Ibis in Myeongdong but it was more expensive and based on reviews, it was right in the middle of the busy part of Myeongdong so it could be a bit crowded and noisy. The Insadong branch was cheaper by about Php10,000.00. But the Myeongdong branch (the one farther from the busy part) won me over because of the great reviews on Tripadvisor (which were all proven truthful) and its accessibility to various subway stations.
It also helped that there were two e-mart branches very near the hotel.
We bought breakfast and snacks from these convenience stores. Rafael loved their breads and every night, he looked forward to picking his bread for breakfast the following day.
Some of Rafael's favorite breads :)
We had a great stay at Ibis Styles Ambassador Myeongdong. While the room was indeed small, the space was maximized to have enough room for our luggage and our "bouncy" little boy.
Rafael and Rhuel loved the automated toilet seat. Sobrang na-spoil ang dalawa. :D
I loved how helpful the staff were. I couldn't figure out the address of the first spot we were scheduled to visit and Olivia, the personnel in the money changing counter, gladly called the place for me to confirm the address. She gave me the address both in English (for my benefit) and Korean (for the driver's benefit).
We were touched by their surprise for Rafael a few nights before we left. They taped some sweets to the window with the note "Surprise!"
Their Internet connection was super reliable and their restaurant had a magnificent (and very chilly) view of the N Seoul Tower.
They were very efficient too. I liked how they were able to accommodate our last minute request for an airport pick up (with confusing flight changes). Check-in was a breeze, which was what we really needed after arriving past midnight already.
Ibis made a really good impression on us and we would definitely consider it everytime we visit a place with an Ibis hotel.
Airline
As much as we'd love to fly with Philippine Airlines, their rates are just way higher than the budget airlines. And since beggars can't be choosers, we ended up booking budget airlines. :D
I initially booked Cebu Pacific going to Seoul then Air Asia on the trip going back home. Aside from the rates, our other consideration was the time of the flight. Nothing too late or too early because it might agitate Rafael. Cebu Pac listed the flight's departure at around 3 p.m. But a few days after booking, they notified us that the flight was moved to 5:25 p.m., which meant we would arrive late in the evening. But still tolerable.
Around midnight on the day of our departure, Cebu Pac sent another message saying that our flight's been moved to 7:30 p.m. This would also move our arrival time to midnight. I had to wake up my husband in the middle of the night to check if we can refund the Cebu Pac tickets and buy Air Asia ones since they had a trip scheduled at around 5:30 p.m. We both agreed that it would be best, considering that we would be traveling with a child. This turned out to be a very wise decision. When we got to Incheon, the flight arrivals chart had 2:20 a.m. listed for Cebu Pac. I cannot imagine how Rafael would manage a trip that late.
I was proud of how Rafael was well-behaved throughout the flights. He just ate (meals, nuts, gummies), used sticker books, watched videos, and slept. I think we can manage short plane rides already. :D
Internet
Rhuel and I both work from home. And since we still work during vacations, we needed a very reliable Internet connection. I rented pocket WiFi through Klook for pick up at the Incheon Airport. My brother recommended a WiFi rental with delivery and pick up of the device in the Philippines. However, we needed one that offered unlimited use (for work and Rafael's videos) and only the Korea pick up had that option.
The pick up station was a bit confusing though. The instructions asked us to go a particular gate number but when we got there, it was closed. Turns out you can go to any KT booth and you can pick up the device there.
Korean Internet connection's very stable and fast. You can use it even on the subway. Rafael never had to complain that his videos were loading. :D
May 21, Tuesday
Our flight arrived on time. Rafael was wide-eyed when he saw a lot of people walking around. He loved drinking from the drinking fountain. :D
We had to take a train to the baggage claim area.
We finished everything quickly - immigration, baggage claim, etc. It was easy to find our driver too. Had it not been for the confusing pick up instruction for the WiFi, we would have left the airport much earlier.
May 22, Wednesday
We woke up late because we were all tired of the long and late trip from the previous night. We could not figure out how the map apps worked. We had to rely on the little calling card map we got from the hotel and I don't know how we came to the conclusion that the Chungmuro station was nearer than the Myeongdong station.
We walked towards the Chungmuro station and after a few minutes of walking, we found ourselves on a street lined with restaurants. Perhaps because it was the only thing he can understand, Rafael said that he wanted to eat at Mister Pizza. Of course Rhuel protested. We were in Korea after all and we're not supposed to feast on western food.
But the little boy really wanted pizza. I saw a Papa John's across the street and felt that it would be a safer pizza option. Unfortunately, that branch only offered take out and delivery services. So we really had no choice but to go back to Mister Pizza.
And we actually liked it. The thin crust pizza was really crunchy. Rafael loved it. I also enjoyed my carbonara.
After lunch, we went off to find the Robocar Poli playground. Armed with the directions given to me by Olivia from Ibis, we rode a taxi. It was interesting to note that Seoul didn't seem strict about taxi loading areas. We hailed a cab right in front of Mister Pizza.
Initially, the driver could not figure out the address. But after a few minutes, his GPS finally found a route for him. There was a bit of a traffic jam along the way. Cars were moving slowly. After the jam, we entered a more laid back part of South Korea.
After about an hour, we finally arrived at our destination. We had to pay KRW31,000. You can just imagine how far we were from Seoul.
Rafael's eyes widened when he saw where we were. He was ecstatic. He discovered Robocar Poli on Netflix (thanks to my brother for letting us leech on his account). I knew he would love to see a playground based on this show.
Admission was free but you can only come in during designated hours. Each batch of kids can only stay for almost 2 hours. The play area is actually connected to a Hyundai dealership. I think the playground was created to cater to the kids of those who were buying cars.
There were lots of Robocar Poli toys. And the place was empty except for the receptionist. Rafael had a blast running around the place. Rhuel and I just wanted to lie down and take a nap on the soft and inviting mats and carpets.
I love how Korean play areas have designated spaces for books. It was nice to see some English titles too although around 80-90% of the books were probably in Korean. The books all looked bright and colorful.
After 2 hours, Rafael was mostly done exploring the area. It was a bit small after all. Now it was time to go back to the city.
I was hesitant to spend another KRW31,000 for a cab ride. But I knew Rhuel was not yet strong enough for a long walk. We agreed to ride a taxi if we see one but we also figured out how to walk to the nearest subway station in case we could not get a cab. We miraculously understood how Naver worked. Estimated walking time was 12 minutes. It was sunny (around 3 p.m.) but the cool breeze made walking a nice experience for us. I'm glad we decided to walk to the train station because in maybe less than 10 minutes, we already got there. :)
We bought T-Money cards at the convenience store on the station. The cashier and I could not understand each other initially. I was asking if Rafael could get a discounted card since he was still a child. We eventually understood each other and we got what we needed.
I admire how most Koreans we encountered in the shops try their best to communicate in English even if they really have a difficult time speaking and understanding it. I felt embarrassed and wished I could speak Korean to make communicating with them easier. Most of them used Google Translate and it proved to be really useful.
After getting our train cards, we were now ready to start our hour-long train ride back to the city. We had to transfer trains 3 times. Fortunately, we got the hang of using Naver and switching trains was not a problem for us. Rafael loved the train ride. He enjoyed watching the view and the people.
After an hour, we finally got to our destination. I was so proud of the three of us. It was like an Amazing Race experience for us - finding the exit to take, the train to board, etc.
That's the reason why I love traveling with family and planning things independently. It's so fulfilling when you finally get to do the things you were just imagining and reading about a few months ago.
We ended up at the Dongdaemun area because Rhuel wanted to try Shake Shack. It was located at the Doota Mall. We explored the mall before eating dinner.
There were souvenir shops there where we bought magnets and Rafael bought Robocar Poli toys. Mabilis ang mata eh. It was also a good thing that we went there because we saw a Tayo Kids Cafe there. Tayo the Little Bus is another Netflix show Rafael loves.
The sellers in the souvenir shops spoke a bit of Filipino. Madaming suki hehe.
We ate dinner al fresco. I love how Korean weather allows you to do that. There were pigeons flying/running around us. It was a lovely experience for Rafael.
Korean time is ahead of Philippine time by one hour. So dinner for us was before 5 p.m. Philippine time, hehe.
Sunset in Korea comes much later, usually around 7:30 to 8:00 p.m. So you get to do more even if it's already late. We still had time to buy our Korea shirts after dinner.
When it was time to go home, Naver told us to get off the Myeongdong station, exit 10. And so we did. And we were so surprised that it was super near our hotel. You just need to cross the street and you're there.
We had to sleep early because we had an early tour the following day.
We had a 7:30 a.m. pick up time for the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) tour. It was a bit challenging to be up and about at that time since it was only 6:30 a.m. Philippine time. Good thing we all woke up on time.
I booked the tour thru Viator. I came across it in one of the blogs I read while preparing our itinerary. Unfortunately, I can't find the blog now. :(
The blogger did not avail of any tour package for DMZ. She took the DMZ train from Seoul and spent the entire day at the DMZ plus a visit to the Joint Security Area (JSA). She said costs are almost the same if you avail of the tour package or go there thru the train.
I picked the tour because it was just for half a day. I wanted to maximize our time. If we opted to ride the DMZ train, we would be back in Seoul early evening because the train has only one return trip at around 4:30 p.m.
After going thru the tour however, I think it might have been better to ride the DMZ train. If we had more time to spare, it would definitely have been more worth it so that the whole thing won't feel rushed. Rhuel was expecting to see the JSA so he was a bit disappointed. Although it might have been challenging if Rafael started acting up in front of the soldiers.
In any case, I was just glad we were able to visit the DMZ. It was number one on my list of places to visit. There's just something intriguing about having two countries that used to be one but are now separated by a military border.
The first stop of the tour was at a memorial park where our tour guide, Katie, bought our DMZ tickets. We took some photos but did not really stay long.
Prior to entering the DMZ proper, a South Korean soldier boarded our bus to check our passports. If you don't have your passport, you need to tell your tour guide beforehand so he/she can prepare a letter to allow you to enter the DMZ.
We then proceeded to the third tunnel created by North Korea to spy on the South. These tunnels were only discovered in 1974, thanks to some North Korean defectors.
Katie said we were not required to walk thru the tunnel. But we did not want to waste the opportunity so we decided to go for it. After all it was "only" 450 meters long. We were given safety helmets before entering. Rafael could not wear his properly because it was too big. The walk going into the tunnel was easy peasy. It was air conditioned and with a descending slope. But we should have been warned by the tired faces of the people going out of the tunnel who could barely walk.
The walk going out of the tunnel was a totally different story. Rhuel was getting exhausted because he had to bend down due to the low ceiling of the tunnel. His back was hurting. Good thing Rafael and I were short so we could just walk straight. Rhuel hit the ceiling a couple of times so the safety helmet was really a must for him.
Since the slope going into the tunnel was descending, the opposite would be true for the way back. The slope was elevated and it was really a struggle for us. I was wobbling and Rhuel thought I was getting dizzy. I was just really out of breath. Rafael seemed tired too but he still had the energy to talk while walking. The only thing motivating me were the signs on the wall on how many meters were left until the entrance of the tunnel. I was panting and sweating. Rhuel must have been very exhausted since he was not yet 100% healthy at that point.
After finally getting out of the tunnel, we had a few minutes to buy souvenirs before boarding our bus for the next destination.
Next stop was the Dora Observatory where we could see parts of North Korea thru binoculars.
The view was not that clear. So you have to listen to your tour guide's tips on how to differentiate North from the South (colorful electric towers for the South and gray ones for the North, etc.).
Rafael could barely reach the binoculars. We tried carrying him but he was too heavy to be carried a long time. But he was happy nonetheless because he was imagining that he could see outer space with the binoculars. :D
Afterwards, we proceeded to the Dorasan Train Station where the DMZ train stops.
Only the South Korean side is functioning. It was a very quiet station although we did see some passengers arriving when we got there. We did not really see the train because we were only allowed in the lobby.
That was our last stop at the DMZ. Before finally exiting the area, a South Korean soldier boarded our bus again to make sure there were no missing passengers.
Drop off was at the Seoul City Hall. But there was a little side trip to a ginseng center first. Rafael fell asleep along the way (he was tired after all!) so the two of us did not get off at the center. The driver turned off the engine (and the aircon) when the rest of the passengers got off. I tried to wave at him to let him know there were people on board. He waved back and walked around the bus to pick up trash and saw that Rafael was sleeping. But he just left the engine off. So I had to fan Rafael with some flyer we got at the DMZ. Thank God Korean weather was tolerable and we survived about 30 minutes without aircon. The driver only turned the engine back on when another passenger boarded the bus (Rhuel, hehe). He should have gone back sooner.
According to Rhuel, there was ginseng tasting inside and tourists were being convinced to buy the products. He wanted to buy some products but they were a bit expensive.
It was almost 3 p.m. when we finally reached the City Hall. Time for some late lunch for us. We did not really have that much energy to walk some more so we just picked an interesting looking Korean restaurant near the area where we were dropped off. Some restaurants were closed for breaks so we did not really have much choice.
Of course I cannot remember the name of the restaurant we visited because its name was in Korean.
We ordered some pork dish that tasted a bit bland. Perhaps it would have tasted better with some kimchi. But since we're not really fans of spicy food, we decided to skip that part.
Rafael wanted to try it but I discouraged him. He enjoyed his huge dumplings which were really meaty and tasty. The soup we ordered also tasted good and was soothing for our empty stomachs (especially Rhuel who did not eat breakfast).
We walked around a bit after lunch as we tried to find our way to the nearest subway station.
Seoul City Hall
We were going to the N Seoul Tower (N for Namsan or the area where the tower is located, and not N for North as I initially thought hehe).
We got to the Myeongdong station but we had a bit of a hard time finding our way to the lift that would take us to the station where we can ride the cable car going to the tower.
The lift going to the cable car station
We were expecting lots of cable cars that we could ride one on our own. However, what we got was just one huge cable car where around 20 people could fit in.
After getting off at the tower, we had to hike a bit more. Rhuel was getting really exhausted with all the stairs and walking. We saw the love locks but opted not to have one of our own.
We bought tickets to the observatory and we rode the elevator going up. Rafael loved the video they showed on the elevator because it was about outer space. We took some photos at the observatory. Rafael tried to use the binoculars again to see outer space hehe. We had some gummies and decided it was time to head back down.
We had dinner at N Burger where we had burgers again. :D I should have researched more because it turns out there was a revolving restaurant at the top of the tower. Sayang. But it would have definitely cost us more hehe.
After dinner, we were all super exhausted from all the walking we did that day. We didn't even have the energy to take the lift going back down. After getting off the cable car, we decided to take a cab. Yun lang, kontrata din. The driver said that since it was a tourist area, the rates were higher. Eh di sige na lang. We had to pay KRW20,000 for a very short trip. But the boys were tired so sige na lang.
We went to bed early to rest our tired muscles. :D
May 24, Friday
We woke up late but that's okay because we were not following a strict schedule that day. It was theme park day for us.
Our exit at the Myeongdong Station - number 10. Ready to start the day. :)
I was torn between Everland and Lotte World. Based on reviews, Everland seemed to be a better option. Someone compared it to Disneyland. But it was farther and more complicated to go to. Lotte World was accessible by train and it was mostly indoors. I ended up choosing Lotte World out of convenience. Besides, I don't think Rafael would be using a lot of rides anyway. Takot ang magulang hehe.
Lotte World is part of a huge Lotte mall. Rhuel's reaction upon seeing the theme park was parang Pixie Forest sa Festival, hehe. In fairness to it though, there were definitely more rides.
We rode the carousel and their version of Rialto (sorry, stuck sa EK).
Then we checked out their forest display which had various insects and some other animals (separate payment).
We had lunch at Domino's because we didn't like the dishes offered by other restaurants. There was a Friday's but there were no available seats.
After lunch, we rode some more rides like a train and their version of the Log Jam.
Our photo at the river ride was sooo funny. Rafael was enjoying himself while I had a very nervous grin. :D
We went down to the lowest level of Lotte World and saw a Pororo Park.
We had to pay a separate fee for this one. Only Rafael and I went inside and Rhuel left us to rest outside. We were supposed to put our shoes inside the lockers. The locker had a key but I could not figure out how to lock it. We waited for someone else to arrive to copy what they're doing. Turns out you had to drop a KRW100 coin to lock the locker. Eh wala kong dalang pera. I was calling Rhuel (never mind the roaming charges) but I could not reach him. Rafael was getting impatient because he knew he only had 2 hours to play. I was yelling when I finally reached Rhuel, haha. He came back with our KRW100 coin and we finally deposited our shoes.
There were many fun things to do at the Pororo Park. Many toys to play with and areas to explore. Probably comparable to Kidzoona. They had rides but would only operate at certain time slots. Rafael and I enjoyed the bump car.
I almost rode a train that was only meant for kids. There were no English instructions so basa basa pag may time won't apply here. Good thing the attendant was able to stop me before I broke the train. :D
There were some mascot shows as well. Rafael seemed to enjoy even if we could not understand what the mascots were singing and saying.
There was also a balloon making demo by one guy. We ended up buying a Pororo balloon afterwards. We had to leave it at the hotel though. We couldn't risk bringing it to the plane only to be asked to leave it behind. Mahirap magwala sa airport. :D
Rhuel found out that since we already exited the main Lotte World area, we could no longer go back in. Uh-oh. I think we still had some areas to explore and rides to try. There was an outdoor area that we have not checked out yet. We could have actually asked if they'd let us re-enter again but we opted not to because we were off to another exciting place.
When we were planning the trip, Rhuel said he wanted to watch a football match. I saw a schedule for Saturday evening. Turns out it was going to be played outside Seoul, hehe. There was a match in Seoul on Tuesday night but it was starting a bit late and Rhuel wanted an easy last day for us. He decided we'll watch baseball at the Jamsil Baseball Stadium instead.
It was my first time to watch a live baseball game and I had a great time. It was probably one of the highlights of the trip for me. There were a lot of people - think UAAP basketball finals levels. The lines were long and people were carrying take out food. Ang sayaaaa!!!
The match that night was between the Doosan Bears (Seoul team) and the Hanwha Eagles (Daejeon team). We arrived as the game was about to start (6:30 p.m.).
The best seats were taken of course. The Doosan side was full, as expected. We got outfield tickets on the Eagles' side.
That's me asking for help on which entrance gate to go to. :)
The match was starting when we got in. The atmosphere was electric. Everyone was cheering loudly and happily (the batting team usually). Each team had their own set of dancers. People were enjoying their beers and dinners.
We bought churros (which seems popular in Seoul) and chicken nuggets for dinner. Rafael loved the churros but did not like the nuggets which were spicy. Even Rhuel and I were unable to finish the nuggets. Ang anghang talaga. Rafael must have been hungry because when we got to the hotel, he was asking when we were having dinner. According to him, I only gave him a "snack." Hehe.
Rhuel patiently answered my questions. Shempre madami akong hindi alam. It was surprising to see a lot of fans for the Eagles team too considering that Daejeon is 140 kilometers away from Seoul (according to Google Maps).
Rhuel says baseball games are fun to watch because there are many lulls in the game which give people more time to cheer.
Unfortunately, we were not able to finish the game. Rafael was getting sleepy. In any case, we did not want to go home with everyone because the trains would definitely be packed.
Hi Pororo balloon! :)
We dropped by the merchandise shop and got Rafael a Doosan Bears baseball jersey. :)
The Eagles won the game. Swerte kami. :D
May 25, Saturday
This was another slow day for us. The blog I used as basis for our itinerary recommended visiting the parks around Seoul. I grabbed this opportunity because unfortunately, there are not that many nice parks to visit in the Philippines.
Our first stop was the Seoul Children's Grand Park.
I loved how the train station leading to it was already lined with child-friendly stuff - paintings, mascots, etc. Rafael wanted to have his photo taken with almost everything.
I initially wanted to check out the Kids Auto Park because I think Rafael would like it. But on our way there, the little boy saw the children's museum and of course, he insisted that we go there first. We had to pay a fee to get in there but it was soooo worth it. My geeky son loved it.
I believe there were three levels with different areas of interest - space, water, body, culture, etc. Rafael loved every area although we were not able to explore the water part because it was overcrowded with kids.
The GGSS boy enjoyed the broadcasting part where he had his own microphone and he could see his face on the TV monitor. The area had its own video camera. Coolness. Rafael hogged the microphone hehe.
Rafael also agreed to wear the Korean traditional costume. I know it's incomplete pero pwede na 'yan. :D
Rafael also loved the construction area where he put velcro bricks on a pretend house.
By the time we were done at the museum (after several minutes of convincing Rafael that there were other places to visit and the museum was going to be cleaned hehe), it was way past lunch.
We were hungry because we only had light breakfast. We could not find any nice restaurants so we ended up buying hotdogs and corn dogs. The hotdog was okay but the corn dog was a bit overrated for me.
After our quick lunch on the street, we proceeded to check out the zoo. The zoo had all sorts of animals that you can see for free. Ang saya. I'm amazed that they can maintain the zoo without making patrons pay.
Rafael enjoyed the ferocious animals area. He loved seeing all the big animals.
After the zoo, we went to the amusement park. The ticket seller and I could not understand each other. She was asking me how many times we want to ride. I asked if she was asking how many rides we'll ride or how many times we'll ride each ride. She replied it was the latter. So we ended up buying the one-ride ticket. Turns out however that it meant we can only ride one ride, hehe. We had to buy a 5-ride ticket again.
Rafael had so much fun with the rides. We tried the monorail, train, monster trucks, etc.
Rafael bravely rode the carousel and one other ride by himself. Galing. I hope he'll grow up more adventurous than his boring parents hehe.
Afterwards, we went to check out the Ttukseom Han River Park. It was a big picnic/biking area beside the Han River, one of the major rivers in South Korea. It didn't seem much but I loved how we were able to have a nice park experience.
There was a small playground that Rafael enjoyed exploring.
I was so proud of Rafael for waiting for his turn in the swing among Korean kids. :D
Since there was nothing much to do at the park, we decided to leave after about an hour. It was dinner time and we wanted to see Hongdae.
There were a lot of people at the Hongdae area. Siksikan. So many people walking on the street. Okay na rin because I found the compact my sister-in-law Trish asked me to find.
Rhuel loved the youthful vibe (read: ang daming magandang bata). He said we should have stayed there hehe.
We had dinner at a restaurant called Bits Bits where we had probably one of the best meals of our trip. Rhuel had steak and Rafael and I shared a generous serving of salmon and prawns. Yum, yum.
After dinner, it was back to the hotel for us.
Part 2 coming soon...
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